First stop was local, before I even settled on the second part: Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve. Apparently, I first visited in September, 2017. And, although I know I have been there at least a few times since, I may not have blogged those other visits. As of today, this is a link to the city's webpage for the Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve.
The first time I visited, they briefed me on some information and signed me up. Not sure if they still do that for first time visitors. Since then, it's just been a sign in. This time, they asked me my zip code as I checked in. I always wonder what they use that information, and if there's a answer that would be more advantageous for me in the long run. Like, if I give a local zip, does that mean they'll think fewer out of towners visit, and will thus be less likely to impose a visiting fee on outsiders? Or, if there are a lot of outsiders, maybe they'll qualify for more state and federal funding, which will be better for the birds?
There are eight ponds in the preserve, and their designed function is to let sediments settle out and have water percolate into underground aquifers. The unintended effect, of course, is lots of surface water in the middle of the desert. That attracts lots of bird life, both resident and migratory. No fish are in the ponds, but lots of vegetation and insects that the birds can feed on. This provides plenty of opportunities for bird watching and bird photography, especially if you have a telephoto lens.
The surroundings have changed quite a bit since my first visit. Houses are encroaching from the north and east, for example, and there's a bike/walking path that runs back there, as well. You can't access that directly from the Bird Preserve. I presume the paths connect to the Las Vegas Wash, itself an inadvertantly created waterfowl habitat.
As I walked around the preserve, trying to get my three miles in and get some nice waterfowl shots, I thought of Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. I had never stopped there, before, but on past trips to Great Basin National Park, I had driven by it, coming and going, each time I went. I could see it comprised of two substantial lakes, with one lined by cottonwood trees. My guess was it was well under two hours away, and something I'd like to spend time around.
[On checking, I saw it was about an hour and forty minutes from the Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve -- Up I-15 to the Great Basin Highway (U.S. 93), north on U.S. 93, and the preserve is directly adjacent to the highway, just before Alamo (local pronounciation is a-LAME-oh).
I guess I was already thinking about something similar, which would have been a visit to Desert National Wildlife Refuge. But I knew there wasn't a lot of day hiking available at that location, and that the visitor center there was closed on Tuesdays (as were visitor centers for a few other places I thought about visiting that day). And, as it turned out the visitor center at Pahranagat is also closed on Tuesdays (and Wednesdays). But, at least, the flush toilets at the visitor center were unlocked. They also had some flyers I could grab, including one with illustrations of some of the birds that visit, which I could use to id what I saw here and at the Henderson Bird Preserve.
The Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve also has an illustrated flyer on line, but I didn't discover that until after my visit there. It's just fun to be able to put a name to the birds you're seeing.
Hiking trails, of which there are many at Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge, are open sunrise to sunset. There's also first come, first served, free camping on the preserve, with vault toilets. Did not note any running water at the campsites, but there would be running water at the visitor center, a few miles down U.S. 93 from the campgsites and day use area. In addition, if the campsites fill, there is free dry camping (no facilities) across the highway, on BLM land. That's fine if you're in an RV, but obviously not idea if you're in a tent.
A camp host was in the site near the large picnic structure at the north end of Upper Pahranagat Lake. We ate lunch at the picnic shelter, then drove along the dirt refuge road to the south end of the lake, which was the actually-designated picnic area. Camp sites are along this road, right adjacent to the lake. I'm told it fills most days during good weather (spring and fall).
As we drove slowly south, we passed the camp host, heading the other way in a pickup truck. She was checking to see if we were camping or if we were day use. Got some good information from her then, and also when I ran into her again, as I neared the end of my hike, when I was on foot and she was riding an electric bicycle. Five stars, if I was doing a review.
There are several dams or dikes that cross the lakes, indicating the lakes are not naturally that large, although the name of the place (Valley of Shining Water, in Paiute) indicates that water was present pre-contact, so probably springs and marshes, and maybe smallish lakes, but not the large lakes of today. The dike at the south end of Upper Pahranagat Lake is topped by a paved (accessible) trail, and has some benches and tourist telescopes mounted if you want to scan the lake. The pavement is also part of the Upper Lake trail. If you continue completely around the lake, using the dirt road to complete the walk, it's a three mile loop. Perfect for my intentions (long enough to break up the drive to get here and back, but not so hard or strenuous that I'd be falling asleep on the drive home).
Apparently, most of the migratory birds have moved on, or at least weren't hanging around mid-day, when I was here. Only the last four photos in this post were taken here, although I took many more. Just didn't get many closeups of waterfowl.
One really surprising thing I did see was the last photo. As I started across the dike at the north end of the lake, I saw something small and thin sticking its head out of the water. I thought maybe it was a snake. As I neared, it dived under the water. I scanned, camera at ready, if it came up, again. It did, and I got my shot. In the moment, I thought maybe it was a beaver, albeit a very small beaver. Didn't know of many mammals that swim under water besides beaver and otter, and it wasn't an otter. Turns out it was a muskrat. I never knew what a muskrat looked like, but the camp host informed me that there were no beavers around the area, and that it was a muskrat.
I also got photos of a red tailed hawk, and an osprey. The osprey was carrying around a headless fish in its talons. I kept interrupting his or her lunch as I walked around the lake.
So about six miles of hiking for the day, separated by about 90 miles of desert. No significant change in altitude, but my first significant day of mileage in quite a while. Not quite as cool as watching a total solar eclipse, but at least something to show for my vacation days.
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