Friday, February 25, 2022
Bowl of Fire, Lake Mead NRA, NV
Sunday, February 6, 2022
Moapa Valley National Wildlife Refuge and Warm Springs Natural Area, Nevada
Located about one hour north of Las Vegas, these two adjacent properties protect the headwaters of the Muddy River, and comprise restored habitat for two native fishes: the Moapa White River springfish and the Moapa dace.
Both were endemic to these watersheds, but became endangered to exotic species introductions. They are mostly isolated to these headwaters, now, where warm water springs seep to the surface.
Near the very headwaters, themselves, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has built some glass-sided viewing areas, where you can see these fish in their restored habitat.
The available walkable area, even between these two sites, is pretty minimal, so you probably don't want to build your entire day around a visit out here. But if you're already heading to other wildlife refuges to the northwest of Las Vegas, or coming back from Valley of Fire or points northwest, this is a nice stop. Vault toilets and picnic tables are available, here.
It's usually pretty lonely around here. When we arrived, there was only one car in the fair-sized dirt parking lot for the wildlife refuge, but the small paved lot for Warm Springs (Southern Nevada Water Authority, SNWA) was overflowing. By the time I finished walking around Warm Springs, however, that lot was completely empty.
In the Wildlife Refuge, there's a short trail to an overlook, as well as a board walk and trail among the headwaters and palms. There are wider and longer trails among the SNWA lands, that winds among the creek, and passes several points of interest. There's a slight change in elevation as you go away from the parking lot and return. Still, altogether, it would be hard to spend more than an hour walking, unless you're really there to try to bird watch.Not a lot of birds to see when I was there. I assume there are specific seasons when they visit, or maybe more when it's hot, and the water is more welcoming to the local birdlife.
To get here from Las Vegas, you'd take I-15 north, to exit 90. That's NV-168. Head west for 7.1 miles to Warm Springs Road (sign for the Wildlife Refuge -- The other brown signs along this road were for entering or leaving the Moapa Indian Reservation). Turn left. Low speed limit, here, and pretty narrow, but still paved.
The entry for Moapa Valley Wildlife Refuge will be on your left. The entry for Warm Springs is on the right, just a bit further down the road. You can easily leave your car in one lot and walk to the other location, though you may choose to drive, if you want your car and ice chest near where you are, when you decide to picnic.Saturday, January 1, 2022
Rubio Canyon, Dec 31, 2021
Turns out this hike was largely the same, initially. My first attempt, I stayed lower, and did not find Leotine, but did find myself on the creek, above the last dropoffs, leading to Thalehaha. First time there, I think. So I went down there, snapped the small waterfalls in this gorge, snapped a shot of some people, preparing to rapel down Thalehaha, then worked my way back up to the "trail."
From there, my numerous attempts kept ending in impassable thickets, and led to much backgracking, ascending, descending, and more deadends. Kind of frustrating. I finally admitted I needed help (the first step!), and pulled out my phone and launched the Alltrails app.
I was convinced I had gone the wrong way because I did a lot of vertical climbing, and I did not recall having to gain so much altitude on my successful gos. Pulling up the map, the app showed a trail heading towards a point marked for Leontine some distance back below. So I headed the way my phone indicated, until I neared the trail split, then turned back north. This put me on to an overlook, where I could finally see Leontine. Along the way, I passed another hiker, heading up, who I think was also looking for Leontine, and I'm pretty sure he didn't find it.Even from the overlook, I was not entirely sure of the way down. But I followed the logical descent, and found myself with some ropes, which told me this was the place. Some of those ropes even looked familiar. :D
The descent seemed steeper, and with fewer handholds than I recalled. I think erosion has made the descent more difficult, to the point where the ropes are almost a necessity, and not just a handy assist.
I'm not sure if a similar fate (erosion) caused my former route to the Leontine overlook met a similar fate, but it did seem like it took a steeper ascent to reach the more or less lateral trail to the overlook.
However, once at the bottom of the gorge, it did seem like some changes had occurred here, too. From the bottom of the gorge, the path upstream is blocked by a boulder, wedged into the "V." There's a fair waterfall shooting out under the boulder when it's wet, too.To get around this barrier, you need to attain the height of that "V." You do that by heading straight across the gorge and climbing that up about ten feet, then turning back upstream. The rock closer to the "V" is grippy enough that you can safely traverse this section, despite being on the edge of that aforementioned ten-foot drop.
There used to be a log leaning against the opposite side of the gorge that made attaining the height easier. It's still definitely doable, but now it's a short class 3 pitch. It's pretty easy going up, if you're of average height and strength, unless the prospect of needing to go class 3 (which I think of as "no feet on solid ground, pull yourself up," even if it's a very short pull, and with a pretty small drop if you slip.). Going past the next falls is somewhat similar, in that it may a longer "tightwire walk," where you're leaning into the side of the gorge and have your feet on a narrow shelf. In theory, its not big deal, since, on this one, if you fall, it's a short slide into a mostly smooth-rock and sand landing. But if the fear of falling gets into your head, it's just long enough to let you freeze up. That put me at the base of Leontine, for the first time in several tries (albeit tries I didn't put too much effort into, since I was pretty sure there wasn't going to be much water coming over Leontine, then). It was flowing at least as nicely as the first time I saw it. Lots of pictures, and some video.I then tried an alternate way back up to the Leontine overlook, that would bypass the two short "scary" segments, but that was stymied by cliffs. So I made my way back down, navigated the two difficult sections with relative ease, and completed my climb up the ropes. Happily, there was no oncoming traffic. No one else coming or going down to Leontine while I was there.
From there, it was back to the Leontine overlook, back to the Thalehaha overlook, then, on the way back to the main trail, I diverted to the Grand Chasm waterfall. That one used to be easier to get to, but erosion took out the more direct route to the landing, above Ribbon Rock/Moss Grotto (I'm actually not sure which one is which). Hadn't been here in a while, so it was a fun diversion. Shot a few photos over the edge from here, too. Then it was down to the base or Moss Grotto and Ribbon Rock, then back to my car. My app insists I walked only about 3.5 miles, which seems way low, considering how many deadends I tried. My fitbit put my step total for this part of my day up around 12,000 steps, which seemed more like it.Really beat, and soaking wet, by the time I was done, regardless of the official distance. Part of the wet was from the water, since the bit near Leontine does include some splash-zone scrambling. Also some splash in the area above Thalehaha, when I contemplated scrambling up the next level (I elected not to). I also scurried under lots of brush, probably still wet from the recent rains. Fortunately, I think the recent cold weather put the ticks to bed, so no ticks found, when I got home. But soaking wet. The shower at home felt good.
May try to hike Bailey Canyon in a bit. That waterfall hasn't been running the last few times I went, even after some significant rains. I'm wondering if erosion upstream has shifted where the water flows? May find out, today or tomorrow.Saturday, November 27, 2021
Table Top Mountain, Mojave National Preserve, CA
A quarter mile or so later, I reached the familiar water tank and windmill. Then I turned right, and walked along the boundary fence for the next two miles.
Slid under the fence near the "final" rocky outcropping before coming parallel to the west face of Table Top mountain, and headed up towards the ridge. While the trail along the fence is pretty clear, there are numerous intermittant trails heading up and along the ridge, towards the west face of Table Top Mountain. Some are "ducked," and some are not. I probably take a different route each time. Somewhat steep in places, and very slippery on that final pitch towards the lava rocks that are the face of Table Top Mountain. I usually wind up heading near the boundary fence that runs along that ridge, crossing slightly over the line after the fence ends, and head towards an approachable notch that faces mostly west. Those rocks are unstable, so you should take extreme care as you pick your way up. Also, try to avoid damaging the plants as you climb the slippery way towards that notch, and avoid damaging the lichen on the rocks near the top. Obviously, if this trail were more heavily used, this would quickly become an issue. But, in practice, this is a somewhat rarely-walked route, despite the prominence of the mountain, within sight of the campgrounds in this area of the Preserve. Because of all that wasted energy around those boulders near the start, I was pretty tired making my way up to the summit. I had no appetite for continuing across the top of the mesa, as I had done, in the past. Instead, I took a number of photos right near the register, then scribbled my blog and handle name in one of the notebooks, there. Drank and ate a bit, took a few more shots, then headed back down. Wound up taking a different route back than I had taken up, which is not unusual. My Alltrails app says I walked 7.5 miles, so maybe 7 miles, if you subtrack my wandering. Add close to another mile, if you walk across the mesa and back. Thirteen hundred feet of elevation gain. Pretty rare to see anyone else on this hike.Tuesday, November 16, 2021
Anniversary Narrows and Anniversary Peak, Lake Mead NRA, NV
So, this year, I poked around Redstone a time or two, and, of course, Valley of Fire (still need to blog). Then I took three hikes in various parts of the Bowl of Fire, which was all new to me, and kind of exciting to "discover." I also hiked up to Northshore Peak (not to be confused with Northshore Summit), which was also a kick.
Pretty much adjacent to (and above) the Bowl of Fire is Anniversary Narrows and Peak. I had read of this hike in the Bird and Hike website, but had some question as to if it was still hikable. So one late September day, I hiked up to Anniversary Narrows, just a bit, somewhat expecting I would need to turn around. But I didn't have to turn around. I did not encounter any "No Trespassing" signs. The actual hike: At about mile 16 of Northshore Road, there's a turnoff on the left for Anniversary Mine Road. It's paved immediately at the junction, then turns to dirt. I could drive my Prius about 200 yards up the dirt road, to where it first drops into Lovell Wash. It's a steep, sandy drop, which would require high clearance and four wheel drive to navigate. I parked on the south side of the wash, and crossed the wash on foot. I picked up the dirt, then paved road on the other side. About 1 1/2 miles of walking on pavement (bearing left at a split) brought me to where the road would cross the mouth of the wash, except it was washed out. So this is apparently the "regular" Anniversary Narrows trailhead.Had I gone right at the split, the road would have met up, but it would have brought me closer to signed and posted private property. According to Bird and Hike, even the trailhead my way is private, but it was not signed, and there was no fencing or other indicators that I could not proceed up the wash, here. Hopefully, this means the access dispute is settled.
From the initial narrows, you pass several mine entrances and tall, crumbly walls. After a bit of a weave, the wash turns right, and widens. After another 1/4 mile, you reach the narrows. My first photo in this post is from just after the narrows begins. Probably a half-mile of narrows, with only a few places that would require short class 3 scrambles. One required stepping on a well-placed pipe. Then the wash widens, again. I'd estimate another 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile along this wider wash before I saw ducks (stacked rocks) indicating a trail branching off from the wash, on the right. This was before where Alltrails indicates, but, being crowd-sourced, I have no way of knowing which approach was better without walking both. And I've only been here, once. I carefully watched for ducks at each split, and made my way up the various narrow washes. Eventually, I started to climb out. As I climbed along the ridge, the view to my north opened up. Very impressive.The only place I veered from a ducked route was where there was a narrow gap in the ridge. The duck had you going up near the top, only to drop down, in the notch. I saw no advantage to doing that over just giving up the altitude earlier, then working up the less-steep route back to the ridge.
This route made it an ocassionally steep, ocassionally narrow walk up. No real scrambling, until after I made it to the ridge between upper Lovell Wash and the Bowl of Fire. Then, approaching the first of several peaks, some scrambling might be required. I decided to content myself with my view where I was, however. I was getting tired, and didn't want to risk a fall. So I kept things pretty easy.By contrast, for much of my hike to the ridge, I heard voices, and eventually spotted a man, trying to coax his female friend to follow him up the scree of the very steep north face of this Anniversary Peak.
In the time it took me to leave the wash, climb the north-south ridge, make my way past the break in the north-south ridge, then reach the dividing ridge between the Bowl of Fire and upper Lovell Wash, then poke around near the first summit for about fifteen minutes, then get back down the north-south ridge, the guy going up the scree seemed to make very little progrss. Maybe 100 yards up? And his female friend appeared to have turned around, as I didn't see her as the guy plodded on. He'd have been better off retreating diagonally to the ridge I took up, then heading up that way. But people (myself included) hate giving up hard-won altitude. His friend, meanwhile, made the right choice. It wasn't going to get easier, not the way they were trying to go. Most times, if it's a hike (as opposed to a climb), and you start having to do unprotected climbing, you're probably not on the right track, any more. Turn around and figure out where you lost the trail.My Alltrails app says I walked 10.8 miles, and gained 1621 feet, that day. Five and a half hours on the trail, nearly five of them moving. Pretty slow going, because of the steepness, the poking through the narrows, and the walking on sand. But a great hike, that's for sure!




















